2.01.2008
day 3: lijiang
a trip to the hairy yak meadow via cable car (3700m high). the jade dragon snow mtn, a virgin peak, looms over. At the foot of the mountain is the Baisha Land (means white sand in chinese), named for the bodies of the slaughtered Puni warriors (history loves a pun). The Naxi won the land at great cost, but the land itself was too infertile to grow anything but grass for the cows to munch.
ah mah ni bo mi hon--6 holy words that spin the world around. the monks at the top of hairy yak meadow make circles, with tins, rosaries, with their daily walk. big circles and small circles, around the words that called into being. did things exist before they had names? do words create consciousness, or does consciousness create words? a shedding of the beast.
we wandered off the path next to a "lawn no trample" sign. we laid in the grass, under the mountain, and listened to the ringing in our heads. the sky was big above us.
zhang yimou (director of crouching tiger, hidden dragon) produced the impression lijiang show we watched in the afternoon. it's basically a bunch of villagers leading horses around and line dancing. they kept yelling things like "i dance for you! i sing for you! i'm just a villager!" the open-sky theater that gazes upon the mountain was supposed to lend majesty, but the show was too obvious for me. i fell asleep with my head on my hands and my butt on a tree stump. i think jon liked it well enough, maybe b/c he couldn't understand what they were saying.
that evening we spent in the village of the dogs, aka shuhe village, which is 600 years old. i ate my favorite of the local foods: chicken eye pea rice cakes--it's a glutinous fried mass that's mixed with bean sprouts, vinegar, spices...mmmm glutinous, mmmm fried (i actually like yak yogurt better, but only b/c you can drink it out of a glass bottle. i'm a sucker for drunken yogurts. plus, since you drink it, it's not technically a food right? which obviously means it doesn't contain any calories and won't do you any harm if you have 4 in 1 go). anyways, back to the dogs. we saw everything from st bernards to huskies to pitbulls to collies to cocker spaniels (not to mention the countless roaming mutts). i fed a demanding little thing all the ham from our soup under the table. the heartless bastard lost interest in me as soon as we left the table. i mean, is it too much to expect a bit of following around?
1.23.2008
day 1: shenzhen to lijiang
a man hawked a loogie (sp?) onto the floor of the bus taking us from the terminal to the plane. about a minute later, the guy next to the spitter drops his cup of coffee, splattering only the spitter. jon says it's the world spitting back at him (gravity: "take that!"). i like it when karma is swift...i felt quite righteous.
en route to our hotel in lijiang, we passed a man squatting on the back of a tricycle, carrying a hawk on his arm. apparently, hunting is a popular pasttime amongst the native naxi ppl (by the way, that x is soft to make a shhhh sound...so the word doesn't sound like nazi at all). our guide says 1 hawk eats the equivalent of 2 cows in a year. i wonder how many quails it's got to catch to make up for that.
and now some color on the local culture: Dongba (as practiced by the naxi's). Dongba tribal culture is matriarchal and hellish from a girl's perspective. the women do all the work and inherit all the property. the men...cultivate their entertainment skills. a dongba woman prides herself on not letting the man lift a finger in manual labor. she wants her husband to be a very good conversationalist, so she makes him go and read while she slaves in the fields. in the old days, no one got married. the women slept in a big house, and the men would slip in at night and entertain them. if that's matriarchy, give me patriarchy any day.
the creation myth: in the beginning, there were 9 brothers and 7 sisters. the 9 brothers broke open the sky, and the 7 sisters broke open the earth. i guess then they got bored, so they got it on. the gods got mad and sent a flood. only 1 man survived. he procreated with a god's daughter, leaving 3 offspring: the progenitors of the tibetans, the bai tribe, and the naxi ppl. my favorite part of this myth is when they call on "the wise men and the able men"--which category do you fit in?
on our way thru the cultural museum, we saw a HUGE crossbow. it was taller than me, must've taken 2-3 ppl to shoot. i asked our guide what it's for--hunting. what did they hunt?--rabbits. WHAT?! upon further prodding--bears.
the curator also showed us some ancient barks with ancient writing. she said the barks will last forever b/c they're made from special trees. when asked how old these barks were--100 yrs (but apparently they have ones that're 600 yrs old in special storage, and some stored at harvard if you guys want to go take a look).
then we learned about the love suicides. marriages are arranged, since its a land based society, but love suicides are practically heralded as good life choices. the way the thing usually goes is this: the boy and the girl run for the hills, frolick in a cave for 2 days or so, and then they either 1)eat poison or 2)throw themselves off the cliffs (always make sure the boy goes first, giving him a gentle shove if necessary--this from our male guide who says it's b/c boys are more wishywashy about love vs life choices). according to the lore, those who die by love suicide achieve great peace in paradise; they ride deer for horses and use tigers to till their fields (apparently they still have to till fields, but i guess that says something about the work ethic of the society). weird. i mean, you don't like your arranged mate? come commit love suicide instead! no downside, we promise.
that afternoon, we climbed elephant mtn, which isn't a tall mountain, but is a very high mtn considering we started at around 2000m. li (our guide) thought we were crazy (i don't think he enjoyed the exercise). halfway up, i spied a couple making out in the bushes. i guess not many ppl pass this way. and no wonder. we could really feel the elevation--let it be noted that in the time of need, jon refused to share his water (altho he did just huff his way up, and i had been sitting in the pavilion waiting for a while--that's right, i beat him up (the hill that is, remember no domestic violence here, move along, move along)).
then we went to the old town, which only got older after the earthquake knocked down all the modern concrete buildings to allow for the erection of more "old" wooden buildings. its a nice, quaint place where backpackers spend months at a time. no cars allowed, only horses and i guess bikes (if you're suicidal and fancy hitting your face on the slippery cobblestones repeatedly). plenty of hostels and coffee shops and wifi. at night, a hopping club scene.
J really liked the rice cakes with brown sugar (above). I preferred the yak's milk yogurt. neither of us really liked the dongba baba (but it's hard not to buy b/c, well, who doesn't like saying the words "baba please").
we bought some native teas (pu'er is made here!) for our parents after an extensive tasting procedure. the tea lady discarded the first cups and used tweezers to handle everything. very professional. apparently, teas can cure all sorts of ailments, including obesity. tune in for next post's installment of lily's china vacation--transition free, we promise (and holy shit i'm long winded).
on a horse in old town square
spicy wontons, a post-dinner snack.
for $10, you can hire one of these to take your wish down the river.
1.21.2008
the good fight
and, we are proud owners of rockband, the most awesome ps3 game EVER. let's just say what with the drumset and the bike, my apartment is (even more) crowded. we may have spent the entire weekend playing it...i can't wait to get home tonight and design tattoos for my rockers. we have two bands called aural mayhem (in which i'm the guitar and jon's the drums) and frog face fish (roles switched). ok, enough about my pretend life.
the ankle is slowly getting better. today i hopped gently on it (while supporting with hands on bed). i'm off the ibuprofen, which means i can feel the full benefits of doug's "massage" (ouch!). and he says i have a golfer's elbow, so we're working on that too.
WHAT'S THIS ABOUT TOSCI'S?!!! Save the flavors!
1.16.2008
day 0.5 in china: shenzhen
this is gonna get very long, so its pseudo linear with bumps along the way that have nothing to do with anything...i guess that's how i write anyways. and it'll be in installments. and the photos will be random (can you tell i'm adding to this intro as i go?) the first thing i did in china was lose $100 to a conniving cabbie. i was gonna pay him $140 to drive me 40km (from the hk-shenzhen border to our hotel near the airport). when we were getting out, i handed him $200 and asked for change. he said he didn't have change, so i paid him $40 more (in HKD), and he fumbled around his pockets a bit before handing me back my benjamin (err i guess its actually a mao, but mao's not very descriptive since every bill in china is a mao)--or so i thought (DUN DUN DUN)! he handed me a fake hundred! of course, i didn't find out until i tried to spend it (which i did several times in many ways: after crumpling it up, after soaking it in water, to a street vendor wearing gloves. apparently its a very very bad fake. jon thinks its printed on A4 paper, but it wasn't my fault! it was dark! and um, yeah, it was dark!). i'm a bit peeved, b/c i already think that $140 for 40km is pretty steep. come on, 25miles?! i used to drive 25 miles to pick up my groceries!
funny things seen on tv while in china:
- a jolly, bearded caucasian man turned himself blue. the interview was in canto, so i didn't catch a lot of it, but i think he did it with a glass of water and an electric current.
- a program about ppl breaking guiness world records--1 guy hung horizontally from a helicopter for a significant number of minutes using a bowl and his abs (the bowl created a vacuum).
- a live variety show of police/army propaganda. lots of soldier/dancers doing choreographed kicks, choreographed marching in place, and choreographed...police barracades (?), all to music, very weird. i guess china is very proud of its large standing army.
1.14.2008
again
other than that, the weekend was terrific. saturday, we played beach from 3-6. towards the end, we were playing games to 5, make it take it, which is an AWFUL idea on sand. turnovers cost so much more, and you're basically running nonstop. i tried to cover jon on two of his deep cuts, but he blew right by me. pshhh, boys. great fun tho. the next morning, we caught the 8:30am pats vs jags game in stanley at MAIN STREET USA, an ostensibly american bar with a swiss chef (they even had swiss fondue on the menu). very nice eggs. go pats!
afterwards, we jogged the catchwater back to parkview. the catchwater is the flatest jog in hk, except at the end where you're going uphill for 10 min straight. phew. i love jogging back to parkview, b/c linda and hubert always feed us well. last week, hubert made true german goulash (it stewed for over 24 hours). this week, we had smoothies. we just had time to ride the bus back to central and pick up our cleats before heading to pickup.
today, jon is home sick with a cold, and i'm gimping around the streets of the city. go us!
1.11.2008
cat got my tongue
on the bright side, i had a dream last night that involved a smite reunion and a lot of hugging.
12.27.2007
12.20.2007
its beginning to smell a lot like christmas
hold that thought. i just lost a food challenge, and my face is covered in chocolate donut (not to mention egg). a bit of background: brian bought me a rice box from the congee place. as soon as he gets back to the office, a broker turkey arrives. keep in mind that i already have a box of half eaten lobster penne in the fridge and that i'm leaving for a 5 day vacation tonight. now. what would you do? hmmm? of course, you'd do your darndest to give both meals the respect they deserve. so. i eat all the beef and veg and egg from my lunch box. spurning the rest of the rice, i go whole hog for the turkey (mom would be proud--all those years of buffet meals has prepared me for just this moment in my professional life--its all about priorities). i can only describe free turkey meals at work so many times, but i guess once more can't hurt: cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, two types of gravy, sweet potatoes, nutty, mushroom stuffing, and of course a ham+turkey. i'm digging in with both hands, turkey bones hanging from my mouth, crunching on the cartilege, chewing the fat, wiping my brow, and carrying right on. finallly, i'm sated. full. i even say no to the proffered wing (what's the difference between proffering and offering? probably the same as between a raven and a writing desk). and then, as i'm taking a stroll around the floor (another tip taught by years of all-you-can-eating--when the pain sets in, a stroll around the floor always helps), drew (another new promotion) shows me the donuts.
the chocolate cake donuts are the only ones left, but those are my favorites anyways. he bets me i can't eat 3 in a minute. we line up a few more people on his side of the bet, so the stakes are: if i can swallow 3 in 1 min, i get HKD 800. if i can get 3 in my mouth inside of 1 min, we're flat. if i can't, i owe them all coffee. well, i couldn't. i got thru 2, and the last one sat soaking in my cups of hot water. i thought that would be an ingenious idea--presoaking them. turns out, i should've brought a spoon if i was gonna turn em into sludge. the coffee cost me HKD 160.
people kept asking me afterwards if i felt alright. they were concerned i would puke. but in all seriousness, folks, its only 2 donuts. i can eat 2 donuts in my sleep with both hands tied behind my back while yodeling. the only real after effect is the jitteriness. maybe its the sugar rush, more likely, its the adrenaline rush. i think i did alright for my first speed eating contest. normally, i'm a volume girl. aw fuck it. there's no graceful way to sign off from an entry like this. see yall later.
12.17.2007
a memo to my adult self re disciplining future children:
1. make the suckers jump rope for punishment (thanks minwah)
2. have family bouncing circles to recount daily news (did you enjoy school today? (bounce bounce)). it'll be our version of family prayer or whatever it was that families normally did together (before tv, video games, and slim shady ruined the american youth).
3. serve up chocolate cereal as dessert (always plan for dessert).
12.13.2007
as outraged as always
2 weeks till christmas! jon and i are going to lijiang, china. we're gonna ride horses, pick tea, and eat yak milk, all at the base of snow mountains. maybe we'll even see some tibetan monks (altho i'm told they're an endangered species). we're also spending a day in shangri la. (speaking of lovely things: i'm eating falafel and it is de-li-cious. my breath will no doubt smell of onions for the rest of the day, but i'm willing to make the sacrifice. how devoted are you to your falafel?).
what else...we got the wii mod'd so now we can play downloaded games. jon surreptitiously bought me ddr (dance! dance! revolution!!!) and pads, but i found him out. downside: no xmas surprise. upside: DDR!! hurrah for immediate gratification. (i can see the end of the falafel, and i'm sad about the upcoming dearth).
oh, and last weekend, i saw pink dolphins. they're actually called chinese white dolphins, but their blood circulation makes them pink. the wwf guide defended the name by saying they turn white after death. as in, they've found carcasses and the carcasses are white. oh my, how macabre. i wonder if the same naming mechanism applies to (white) people. ahem. we actually saw quite a few dolphins, and they swam right up to the boat--mommas with their babies (which are gray), friends swimming side by side, lone dolphins chasing fishing boats. i was very pleasantly surprised, since at the beginning of the journey, there's all this hedging talk about "we don't guarantee that we'll see any dolphins, pls keep all your eyes peeled, etc etc" (there goes the last falafel...sigh. remember that scene in ice age where the last female taekwondodo fell off the edge? that was awesome. TAE KWON DO DO!).
enough randomness for one day. now back to your regular scheduled programming.
12.04.2007
he's on my list
(incidentally i touch my forehead a lot more than i realized)
(what is it with me and backhand injuries? my elbow is still crappy in a way that won't let me straighten completely. dr laura, pls help).
(jon and i (think we) saw the bat signal the other day. they're filming the new batman in hk, and there was this huge crane with a huge skylight right outside my apartment. so we didn't see the actual bat signal in the sky, but we could've seen the thing making the bat signal! wouldn't it be cool to be a movie set engineer? you've got 3 days to make something that makes the bat signal: ready, steady, go!)
11.28.2007
11.22.2007
ugh...
happy black friday everyone. go buy a wii.
REJOICE!
and don't let's forget dinner (tonight)! and dinner (tomorrow night)! may the serial tday meal tradition live on. prepare the moo moos, i'ma gonna eat me some boids!
11.20.2007
booyah!
11.18.2007
chinalisation and randomization
i'm back from manila, and it was a blast. our paltry team of 8 picked up 4 more guys and 1 more girl. the girl, pong, played coed in college for colby (in maine), and she had spent last summer in boston (speaking of first world connections, i met jenny yang (?) who plays/played for emory and had nancy as her camp counselor at nutc! led to an instantaneous rave about the awesomeness of nancy. yay nancy!).
the tourney organizers knew how small our team was, so they seeded us in the b division. we played only local teams, one of which beat us, preventing us from playing up into elim rounds. its amazing how much the sport has grown in the phillippines. they have a year round 20 team league. the style of play is very distinctive. lots of squirrelly handler cuts, io's+high release backhands, every once in a while, jack it deep. all of their teams are super quick, and some of their guys have amazing ups. i'm particularly impressed with how much they use their girls. my goal this tourney was to practice poaching/baiting. i got punished for it twice with deep throws to the girls for scores. (i think one of them was a hammer). lesson learned, only let your girl go deep if there's a guy deeper than her. otherwise, i felt pretty good for my poaching. i definitely stopped a couple of throws to guys, even getting a d on a deep throw. baiting-wise, i got 2 run thru catches in 1 game, but in the other games, they wouldn't throw to their girls if i was anywhere near, even tho i was running flat footed and breathing heavily (pretending to be tired).
i also think i'm getting better at the leadership thing--ironic, given this is the first tourney in a while where i wasn't actually a captain. maybe i just don't like the responsibility. or maybe i just enjoy butting in.
anyways, the game we lost, we lost b/c we couldn't stop their deep threat, which astounded me b/c we have really good deep men. a couple were misreads, and maybe the ground is softer than our guys are used to, so they can't jump as high and end up jumping too early (oh yeah! the ground was amazingly soft and muddy--my favorite field conditions, so the turf shoes were unneeded after all). in retrospect, maybe we should've just had one of our guys backing their deep the entire game (like c-mo did to beau in 2004 finals). i dunno, as a girl, there's very little you can do when we lose like that. as a pseudo-captain...i dunno. maybe we should've used more of a zone, but their guy was beating us in 1 on 1 matchups all over the place. maybe the cup could've stopped the huck. ah well.
oh, and the first game, i was the rabbit for a 1-3-3, which was working well, until their main handler winds up for a huge backhand, and i manage to get my right hand in the way. i think the impact twisted something in my elbow (of course he called the foul, and i couldn't contest). i sat out for the rest of that game, and i could neither straighten all the way nor bend all the way without pain for the rest of the tourney. made my forehand very suspect. 1 game, i completely lost my io flick. foo. and sat night, i couldn't reach my face with my right hand, which means: left handed washing of hair, left handed brushing of teeth, left handed eating of food. you have no idea how much my face misses my right hand. my hamstring, on the other hand (har har), held up very well.
and now for something completely different. FOOD! last night, i ate three dinners: a sandwich and a bun at the manila airport, my in-flight meal (which tasted great), and a plate of spaghetti at the hk airport. we spent so much time eating that we caught the rest of our teammates at the airport express for the ride back into town (they had taken a later flight). AND. are you ready for this? thursday is thanksgiving! it totally snuck up on me this year. but i do have a tday dinner thursday, a tday dinner friday, and a recovery hike saturday. i'm pumped. this is gonna be a great week.
oh, and michelle wu from smite 2002 and smitten 2007 is in town! i'm "doing" dinner with her tonight (what is up with the doing of the meals? is dinner your mom? no? then we won't be doing it, will we? actually, michelle said "having dinner" or something equally innocuous, but i'm sick of the doing...everyone past a certain age/importance seems to want to do their meals). anyways, i'm excited for korean food tonight with wu-tang.
11.15.2007
crazy
this weekend, i'm going to manila again. last year, it was my first real asian tournament (hk doesn't count b/c i missed the first day, and perth doesn't count b/c it was in australia). i played basically savage the entire tourney, and left with a severe limp and what felt like a broken foot (i never got it xrayed, so i still don't know for sure--the attempt to get it xrayed was a complete fiasco. i was so frustrated i punched a wall. here's how xrays in hk work: you pay the gp, the gp gives you a prescription for an xray, you walk to the xray facility, which is a couple of blocks away, you hand them the paper, they take the xrays, they send the xrays back to your doctor, who diagnoses you or whatever. here's what they did to me: they gave me the paper, sent me hobbling in heels to the facility (my foot was hurt, remember?), i get there, the lady looks at my paper, and tells me they don't take xrays of feet. what?! if i want feet xrays, they have a facility in causeway bay or mongkok or somewhere else equally far and not workday accessible. so. i ask for my money back. except they don't have my money, the gp has my money. so i had to hobble back to the gp to get my money back from the incompetant receptionists, who said, "whoops, oh right, i forgot they don't do feet." and to add to the frustration factor, i had lost my voice so all i could do was rasp angrily and of course, punch a wall). holy aside batman!
anyways, here i am, about to go back to manila. last weekend, i bought a pair of turfshoes in preparation for the baked clay fields. and in spite of the tournament name (manila spirits), i'm a tad worried. last year, a player on taiwan dove on top of a disc that had kicked up clouds of dust and called it up. in full view of his entire sideline, who became conveniently mute at the moment (they had been yelling calls from the line all game). they also played a cup that perpetually triple teamed. they knew they were doing it too. their coach encouraged it. blah. hopefully, this year it'll be better. we have a really fun group going.
otherwise, just lots of histrionics around the wfdf asian tournament. who's eligible, who's not, who has the right to rep hk, who's not local enough, etc. there's no drama like disc drama. there's no drama like disc drama. there's no drama like disc drama (now take me back to smite 2004!).
11.05.2007
snacks and nunchucks
whoops, there goes my last wheat thin. these pleasures are always short lived.
i am caught up in wii zelda, which makes me an antisocial and very controlling wii'er. when jon is playing, i am always looking over his shoulder yelling "ROLL DAMNIT ROLL!" or "NO, THE OTHER LEFT!" or very simply, "AAARRRRRGHHH!" one day, i will stamp my feet and pull my hair and fall thru the floor into oblivion like rumpelstiltskin. till then, little men.
10.31.2007
phuket!
on the clearance rack at wellcome (grocery store): strawberry flavored correctional fluid (i wonder why its on sale?).
i saw a man wheeling a raw rack of meat on his bike, uncovered, in the rain. good morning hong kong!
jon and i went to phuket (thailand) for a week on the beach with both sets of parents. i was a little nervous going into the event. luckily, my dad set the mood of graciousness early. as a frequent traveller, he gets access to all the first class lounges. he returned with a canvas bag full of hardboiled eggs and ice cream cups. it was quite magical watching him produce item after item from his mary poppins sack (and people wonder why i never blush anymore).
we stayed at the evason six senses suite. VERY nice. most ppl who go don't leave the resort at all. they have everything from spas to libraries to game rooms (including foosball and ps2) to gyms to pools and pools and pools (and waterslide). they even have a private island, replete with snorkelling (coral!), parasailing, sea kayaking, and windsurfing. our parents spent a lot of time lounging on that island (almost as much time as they spent at the breakfast buffet: 3hrs every day, ppl, who the heck eats breakfast for 3 hours a day?! oh right, the ppl who spawned me).
jon and i spent the first four days getting our padi scuba licenses. i totally kicked his butt on the written tests (even tho i slept thru all the videos and he's taken the course before). booyah! ahem. the water was pretty choppy for our sea dives--i've never seen so much puke in my life (from the passengers, not the fish). luckily, underwater visibility was still good. our first dive was a reef dive. who knew fish came in so many colors? how is it advantageous to be neon pink with bright yellow checks? i almost put my hand right thru a scorpion fish (which is crazy poisonous)...it was the only thing we saw (or didn't see, in my case) that blended perfectly into the sandy bottom (bastard was tan colored). our instructor, born, showed us all sorts of sea slugs and baby moray eels, etc. no idea how she found them...she'd tease them out of their holes with her little bell. they were never larger than my little pinky. my favorite fish were big and white with reddish bellies. they had bright yellow, forked tongues that they'd jab into the sand over and over, like snakes (why doesn't satan have a forked tongue?). oh, and of course, the fluke, who is the duke of soul. jk. what is a fluke anyways?
our next couple of dives were all wall dives, which means you dive near these rock islands that rise vertically out of the water. underwater, tons of creatures are anchored to the nooks and crannies in the rock. you get all of the anemones and corals and shrimp and slugs that you'd get in shallower reefs, but you also get the schooling fish and rays and sharks of the deeper waters (altho we didn't see any sharks). floating in a school of fish is amazing, especially when they all zig at the same time (how do they know?). on the second day, the current was pretty strong, and i sat on a sea anemone. i was trying to kneel on the bottom while jon did a skills test, but the water kept pushing me backwards, and before i knew it something was tickling my leg. the pain comes on slowly, like eating spicy food. you can't feel the burn until its way too late. and then...i was in the shower trying to pee on myself. i have no dignity in these types of situations (b/c i'm normally so composed). then born tells me that vinegar works equally well. oh good. btw, there is woefully little info about anemone stings on the internet. they hurt for a couple of days, then they play like they're getting better (swelling goes down), then they come back for a double whammy--of itchiness! they started feeling like poison ivy! i had to scald them under hot water to keep from scratching. stupid anemones. still, i can't wait till my next dive. floating underwater for hours at a time is a very relaxing way to be. diving also increased my bathing tolerance. no longer am i limited by wrinkly digits (convenient cuz our room had a very large tub, something i've definitely been missing in hk).
costumes and sets were pretttttty darn elaborate.
my parents, kayaking off. don't be fooled, before long, my mom had stretched out with her book and her parasol, while my dad was charged with ferrying her around the island.
airplane!
10.11.2007
a study in sweet meats
breakfast was fantastic: the pianist, the soft rain and soft eggs. the view overlooked the beach, where an empty long boat floated in melancholy solitude. i ate in an anime setting.
the japanese girls nibbled their salads. the germans had their cold cuts and dark breads. the americans loomed over their mountains of rolls, peaks of butter. the british returned for course after course, each wet fruit eaten just as primly as each fresh fruit as each dried fruit. the chinese stored their nuts in their napkins. i swallowed the world to beat them all.